EVS vs Modwright:  The Modwright mod is mostly a really great tube output stage.  There is mention of digital power supply mods and damping.  By the time you have added the better power supply cable and some Sophia tubes, etc....you are looking at about $2300 for the mod.  We do believe in great output stages and our solid state output stage is super pure, transparent and simple and powered from separate fully discrete cascoded current sourced shunt regulators....all hand made.  However, we do tons of other stuff that also improves the sound.  Every single thing we do makes the sound better or we would not do it.  Here is a list of things in the $1525 all out stereo EVS mod that are not in the Modwright mod:

1.  Remove various distortion producing parts on the AC input. 
2.  Damp various parts on the switching supply.
3.  Remove the toslink connector....it is an LED and they mess up the sound.
4.  Seriously damp the disc cover and mounting pads of the transport with constrained layer damping material.
5.  Seriously damp the disc spinner with a piece of constrained layer damping material....very important.
6.  Black the underside of the disc cover and all around the laser mechanism using flat black paint.
7.  Ground the disc cover.
8.  Change the main diodes in the switching supply to damped soft recovery types.
9.  Twist the wires going to and from the toroidal transformer.
10.  Mount the toroidal power transformer off the chassis on a piece of quarter inch thick wood.
11.  Change the rectifying diodes on the analog power supply board to damped soft recovery types.
12.  Damp the ringing in the transformer as the diodes shut off with a circuit that includes a nude Vishay resistor.
13.  Change the preregulator for the DAC digital supplies to a modified Dexa regulator and mount it on a much larger heatsink.
14.  Change the regulator on the analog power supply to the ESS DAC to a fully discrete cascoded current sourced shunt regulator.
15.  Change the stock 54 meg clock for the ESS DACS to a super low jitter 100 meg clock powered by its own discrete cascoded current sourced shunt regulator.
16.  Change the stock 25 meg clock that runs the main processor (affects everything including picture and HDMI out) with a super low jitter clock run off its on discrete cascoded current sourced shunt regulator.
17.  Add the Audio Magic Pulse Gen ZX to the power supply for more pure sound.
18.  Change the 25 watt toroidal power transformer to an 80 watt split bobbin type.
19.  PCOCC copper litz wire for power supply runs.

Some other differences: 
Our output stage has an extremely short signal path: one 2 inch piece of wire, the I-V converter device and one resistor are all that is in series from the DAC to the output jacks.  We have no capacitors in series with the signal.  The Modwright unit has long wires running to the output stage, then through a tube and mosfet, etc. and then more wires running to the coupling caps and then more wires running back to the balanced connectors and then more wires jumpering to the unbalanced connectors.

We use tweaky modded parts for better sound.  The Wima bypass caps we use have the steel leads removed and have 6N copper leads installed and we then mark the caps for outside foil.  We modify the Dexa regulators for much improved sound.  We make our own hookup wire using 6N copper and put it inside cotton tubing.  All circuits are made by hand on perf boards except the output stage boards.  We make a dust cover that can be removed so you can get better sound by having it off and even with the dust cover on it runs cooler.  We damp lots of the parts we add and other parts with constrained layer damping material that is then also glued down with Amazing Goop.

Pic above shows modified Wimas with 6N copper tinned with Wonder Solder Signature and marked for outside foil....all hand done.

We have been modding disc players since they came out in 1983.  With the new lower jitter clocks available today and the fantastic ESS DACs plus great execution everywhere we can now achieve a sound from all discs that has never been available before. 

EVS mod versus the Upgrade Company mod:   He claims his mods are the best, yet he has not heard mine, that is for sure.  How can you know your mod is best if you have not even heard the competition?  He basically does a bunch of shielding and parts swapping. He does not change the output stage, the regulators, the clocks, does none of the stuff listed above.  He just upgrades some caps and other parts and shields.  That is only going to get you so much.  The strangest thing he says is that "by law" no is allowed to copy his shielding techniques.  From the few pictures available on the web, he wraps wires with alluminum foil, puts ferrite beads on the cables and puts shielding material directly on chips.  All this has been done for years by many people.  In fact, there are stock machines out there with ferrite beads on the power suppy wires, etc.  I shielded the UltraAnalog DAC with copper coil and mu-metal in the mid 90s.  So, if I put shielding on the cables or chips, will I get arrested by the shielding police???  His shielding and parts swapping will cost you $1300.

EVS mod versus Exemplar Audio:  Cannot see their description of the mod because when you go to their website and click on the "Oppo 95 button" you get a mod for a DAC instead.  Before they recently changed their website they had a description of their $2000 mod to the Oppo 93 that basically said they added a linear power supply, upgraded some regulators, changed the audio op amp and put better coupling caps in it.....and maybe something else?  Now, I would charge say $500 for that kind of mod.......hmmmmm.  We'll see what they are doing now to the 93 and 95 if they ever do put the real info up.