Now install the motherboard into the case. Before that, mount the flimsy rear piece into the case, it just snaps in. You will probably have to remove the pre-punched metal for 2 antenna holes and the USB DAC-up port. Then slide the MB in and screw it down to the chassis with 4 screws.

You are now done installing parts; all that is left is to attach all the power and data cables. Pay attention to my pictures and notes, you want a clean looking install that allows as much airflow through the computer as possible. I connect the ATX power cable to the MB, first the 24 pin and then 4 pin. Pay attention to the manual and its diagrams and you should have no issues. Both the CPU and front fan connect to the MB, the data cable to the SSD/HDD also attaches to the MB, choose a SATA 3 port (SATA 3 are fastest), usually the lowest number port, especially important if 2 drives are connected, the operating system drive should be in lowest numbered slot. The power for the SSD/HDD comes from the PSU, attach that connector to the drive and if a second drive is installed attached another connector from the same cable to that as well. Then connect the items from the front of the computer case to the appropriate header on the MB (on/off, reset, HDD light, power light) these are very small, sometimes one wire connectors, pay attention to polarity, sometimes marked, other times just a small arrow may indicate polarity study them before connecting so you understand and make sure you put them on the proper header. Then attach the front panel audio wire connector to the MB it only goes one way. You also need the USB 3 to USB 2 adaptor to connect the front USB ports to the MB, this particular MB does not have any USB 3.0 headers on it. That's okay, I just connect my mouse and keyboard to these and USB 2 is just fine. Look at the pictures and use some small nylon zip ties to attach wires together or to the chassis to keep airflow maximized. When done put the case back together, you have just made a wonderful audio only PC.

Now on to any bios setup you may want to do. The manual has a very detailed section on this and you can tweak any you desire. In most cases you probably would not have to touch any of this and just live with the defaults. I changed a couple of settings, but I think my system would have been fine with the defaults. One thing I want to point out, if your DAC does not need to see the 5Vdc supply from the PC then you can go into the bios settings and turn the voltage off for the DAC-up port, all other USB ports will have 5 Vdc. My DAC, the Gustard X20u, needs to see 5V from the computer, but I also use an Uptone Regen which supplies a much cleaner 5V to the DAC, so I still turn the 5Vdc off for my DAC-up port as the Gustard is happy with the 5V from the Regen. My previous DAC, the NAD M51, did not need 5V from the computer or Regen so I actually taped over pin 1 of the USB (the +5Vdc line) to keep power from my NAD. When the bios screen opens for the gigabyte H81n motherboard you may want to click the classic view located in the lower right side of the screen (see my photo) as this follows the script in the manual perfectly, the other view jumps around and will drive you crazy trying to find it in the manual.

The settings I changed in bios:
Extreme memory profile- I chose Profile 1
Memory Boot mode- I chose enable fast boot
Memory enhancement settings- I chose enhanced performance
Channel interleaving- I chose enabled
Rank interleaving- I chose enabled
Security Option- I selected setup
Fast boot- enabled
Storage Boot Option Control- UEFI Only
Administrator password- create one, you need this every time you want to change bios settings
Initial display output- IGFX
USB DAC power- I disabled because of Regen, but probably best to leave enabled
Onboard LAN controller- disabled since we use a separate wifi card
Soft-off PWR-BTTN- delay 4 second

After changes, save and exit set up.

Next you are ready to install Windows. I selected Windows 7 Pro and purchased from Ebay. I did this because it is pretty cheap $30-$60 and until the end of July 2016, once you activate Win 7, you get a free upgrade to Windows 10 pro. I have read from numerous places that newer Windows OS sounds better than older Windows OS. Attach your external DVD read write unit, insert the Windows disc and reboot your computer, you may need to access the boot menu which is usually accessed by pressing the F12 key on restart. Select the DVD read drive as the boot drive and then follow the instructions on the screen. When done you have a finished computer with a fresh copy of Windows 7 Pro. Make sure you activate this copy of Windows with the supplied key either online or you may have to call it in and use the automated activation process. I have done both and they work just fine and all my copies of Windows have activated.

Now insert the DVD that came with the motherboard and install the drivers. I unchecked the stuff I did not want and only installed the following:
Microsoft .NET framework
Inf Update Utility
Intel Management engine software
Intel HD Graphics win 7/8 x64
Realtek HD Audio drivers
Intel Rapid Storage tech driver
Intel USB 3 driver

I then upgraded to Windows 10 pro and once that was done I went into driver update and turned off automatic driver update because Windows can sometimes select and add drivers that don't play nice with your gear. If you want to update a driver for any reason go to the manufacture's website and get it there. (Google how to turn off automatic driver update in Windows 10 and follow the instructions).

Then I started to install my audio program software. I use Roon, HQPlayer and Audio Fildelizer Pro. Once I finished that I set up Audio Fildelizer at the level I wanted (purist) and selected HQplayer as my media player so once it finished initializing it would automatically open HQplayer. I also went into startup and added Roon so when the PC started Roon would open. (Google how to add a program to windows 10 startup).

Other notes- since I burn CD's to my HDD with a Mac and the Windows PC must be able read this, I needed a format that worked under both Windows and Mac environments. I decided to format my music storage disc as Exfat that can be read and written to by both Mac and Windows. My back up HDD is still formatted in Mac OS extended and dragging files from my Exfat drive to this has caused no issues. So I recommend formatting music storage HDD/SSD in Exfat.

The last thing you need to consider is selecting a CD burning software program and here I admit to knowing next to nothing for Windows. I started with a Mac and found good burning software, my music HDD is formatted (Exfat) so Mac can read and write to it. So I disconnect the HDD and then connect to my Mac and use XLD and the LG DVD R/W to burn my CD's. When done I just disconnect the HDD and reconnect to my Windows PC. I suggest goggling Windows bit perfect CD burning software reading up on them and selecting one (most have free trials or are free) and then buy the one you are most comfortable with. I have read about Exact Audio copy (free) which works good, but I understand is more complicated to set up; there is Easy Audio Copy which is a ($30) program or dBpoweramp Music converter V12 which is about $40. All get the job done, you need to decide which is easiest for you.

As I said in the beginning this pretty much is just one person's journey to computer music playback. The more you research this the more you will realize that there are many ways to approach this from my method to NAS based whole house systems incorporating music servers. You can select very expensive components (motherboards, CPU's and even Platinum rated PSU's). You can drive yourself crazy with indecision. So decide what your goals are and how best to accomplish them and have fun.